Info on the pitches of Piteraq
Pitch | Length/meters | Rating | Bolts put in pitch | Bolts put on belay | Special info on the belays |
1 | 65 | A1 | 0 | 1 | Moby Dick |
2 | 45 | A1 | 0 | 1 | Moby Dick |
3 | 45 | A1 | 0 | 0 | Moby Dick |
4 ![]() |
50 | A2 | 3 | 2 | |
5 ![]() |
55 | A2 | 3 | 1 | Existing rappel anchor |
6 ![]() |
55 | A2+ | 5 | 1 | Belay from Moby Dick |
7 ![]() |
50 | A2+ | 1 | 1 | |
8 ![]() |
55 | A2+ | 4 | 2 | |
9 ![]() |
55 | A3- | 3 | 2+2 (optional belay) | |
10![]() |
30 | A2 | 0 | 1 | Portaledge Camp 1 |
11 | 60 | A2? | 0 | 0 | War and Poetry/Geneva Diedre |
12![]() |
60 | A2+ | 2 | 2 | |
13![]() |
55 | A1 | 0 | 2+1 | |
14![]() |
60 | A2 | 2 pitons fixed | 3 | Portaledge Camp 2 |
15 | 60 | A2? | 0 | 1 | Moby Dick |
16![]() |
60 | A3 | 0 | 2 | ½ Moby Dick |
17![]() |
60 | A1 | 0 | 2 | |
18![]() |
40 | A2 | 0 | 2 | |
19 | 15 | 5.9 A1 | 0 | 0 | War and Poetry |
20 | 50 | A1? | 0 | 0 | War and Poetry |
21 | 55 | 5.9 A1? | 0 | 0 | War and Poetry |
22 | 20 | 5.6? | 0 | 0 | War and Poetry |
Total: 1100 m | Total: 21 bolts | Total: 29 bolts |
The bolts used:
All bolts on the belays are 90mm long and 10mm thick. The hangers are Fixe-2 with a ring for rappel. Bolts in the pitches are 60mm or 90mm long and 10mm thick. Hangers from the bolts in the pitches were removed. Bolts and hangers are not stainless. All bolts were drilled by hand.
Approach:
To reach the base of the cliff, ice axe and crampons can be indispensable.
Rappel from top:
Top-chimney+5 rappels in Moby Dick will bring you to belay 15.