Info on the pitches of Piteraq

Pitch Length/meters Rating Bolts put in pitch Bolts put on belay Special info on the belays
1 65 A1 0 1 Moby Dick
2 45 A1 0 1 Moby Dick
3 45 A1 0 0 Moby Dick
50 A2 3 2
55 A2 3 1 Existing rappel anchor
55 A2+ 5 1 Belay from Moby Dick
50 A2+ 1 1
55 A2+ 4 2
55 A3- 3 2+2 (optional belay)
10 30 A2 0 1 Portaledge Camp 1
11 60 A2? 0 0 War and Poetry/Geneva Diedre
12 60 A2+ 2 2
13 55 A1 0 2+1
14 60 A2 2 pitons fixed 3 Portaledge Camp 2
15 60 A2? 0 1 Moby Dick
16 60 A3 0 2 ½ Moby Dick
17 60 A1 0 2
18 40 A2 0 2
19 15 5.9 A1 0 0 War and Poetry
20 50 A1? 0 0 War and Poetry
21 55 5.9 A1? 0 0 War and Poetry
22 20 5.6? 0 0 War and Poetry
Total: 1100 m   Total: 21 bolts Total: 29 bolts

The bolts used:

All bolts on the belays are 90mm long and 10mm thick. The hangers are Fixe-2 with a ring for rappel. Bolts in the pitches are 60mm or 90mm long and 10mm thick. Hangers from the bolts in the pitches were removed. Bolts and hangers are not stainless. All bolts were drilled by hand.

Approach:

To reach the base of the cliff, ice axe and crampons can be indispensable.

Rappel from top:

Top-chimney+5 rappels in Moby Dick will bring you to belay 15.

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